Het Haagse kookboek

Almost all domestic science schools established throughout the country at the end of the nineteenth or the beginning of the twentieth century published their own cookbooks. Some of them became true bestsellers. Particularly popular, for example, was the cookbook of a domestic science school in The Hague: the Recepten van de haagsche kookschool (Recipes of the Hague Cooking School) by A.C. Manden went through no fewer than 41 unchanged editions between 1895 and 1929! Also particularly beloved was the Kookboek van de Amsterdamse huishoudschool (Cookbook of the Amsterdam Domestic Science School), first published in 1910, better known as het Wannée-kookboek (the Wanneé Cookbook), which is still published to this day: the 29th edition appeared in 2010.

The cooking schools were primarily practically oriented: food had to be nutritious and, above all, not too expensive. No frills, no luxury: food serves mankind and nothing more. Until the 1950s, teachers at domestic science schools who held this view managed to exert their influence. Generations of housewives were taught this philosophy, resulting in a drab and uninspired cuisine. This cuisine was iconic: the Netherlands remains notorious for it both at home and abroad.

Eating with pleasure 

Alongside this influential movement, however, the idea that eating may also be enjoyable began to cautiously emerge in some cooking schools as early as the 1930s. This mainly concerned cooking schools attended primarily by students from the upper class. The Domestic Science School on Laan van Meerdervoort in The Hague was one of them. In 1934, the cookbook of this domestic science school was published, written by two teachers, the ladies Stoll and De Groot, titled Recepten van de Huishoudschool Laan van Meerdervoort 's-Gravenhage (Recipes from the Domestic Science School Laan van Meerdervoort The Hague). Quite soon, the popular book became known as Het Haagse kookboek, under which title it was quickly published. Generations of girls were taught using this cookbook, not only at the Hague School itself but also elsewhere in the country. Later, the book also found its way to other users. Many a student received this substantial book as a gift when moving into their own student accommodation, and other people without a domestic science education also made (and still make!) grateful use of the clear recipes for both basic tasks and more complex dishes. The 82nd edition appeared in 2010: truly a bestseller! Since the 69th edition in 1982, the book has appeared under the title Het nieuwe Haagse Kookboek. A new name, but no new content, as is emphasized in the preface to this edition. The original layout and structure were maintained. Only new insights in the field of nutrition have been incorporated into this new edition, as had always been done with care in all previous reprints. This is clearly visible, among other things, in the stated cooking times for vegetables. For instance, while the 1965 edition listed 20 to 30 minutes for cooking green beans, the 1995 edition recommends cooking the beans for no longer than 15 to 25 minutes.

Recipe

The following recipe comes from the 75th edition from 1995.

Recipe: Marinating meat and game
The purpose of marinating is to give the meat a different flavor, to make it more tender, and to keep meat that cannot be used immediately for a few days. All kinds of meat can be marinated, e.g. lamb loin, pork loin, beef cuts, game hare, venison, marcassin (young wild boar). For a marinade for meat or game, one can use various compositions, e.g.:
¾ l wine, ½ l vinegar, 1 dl oil, salt; or ¼ l wine, ¼ l vinegar, ½ l water, 2 tablespoons oil, salt; or ¼ l wine and vinegar or ¼ l vinegar, ¾ l water, salt.
To this are often added fresh herbs: carrot, parsley, sliced ​​shallots (or onion), a clove of garlic, and dried herbs: thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, or mixed meat seasoning. Place the meat in the marinade for 1 or 2 days. Cover the pan or bowl with the meat and turn the meat over a few times. When removing the meat, let it drain well, dry it, and then fry or roast it. Finish the gravy with part of the marinade and save the rest for another time. If the marinade needs to be stored for a long time, boil it briefly in a covered pan, let it cool covered, and store it in the refrigerator. The strength of the marinade one chooses will depend on the type of meat, its toughness, taste preferences, and the storage method. Without a refrigerator, one would prefer to make a marinade with plenty of wine and/or vinegar (1st example).

Sources

The KB holds, among others, the pictured 43rd edition of Het Haagse kookboek from 1965. Shelfmark: 9906 E 23